Pretty and Practical

That’s how I would describe this month’s Sew Creative Embroidery club project. Retailers just click on Retailer Login to get to your download page.

This handy Sewing Machine Mat with Pockets is the perfect accessory for  hands-on classes. You know, no matter the size of the classroom, there is very little space to spread out your sewing tools and accessories. The pockets hold scissors, snips, measuring tape, marking pens, etc. Practically everything you need. is at hand.

The pocket is embellished with needlework motifs from Redwork Needlecraft Embroidery Designs #sc070d, included with the project.

This month I have a little freebie for everyone. It’s a label with the cutest thread spool. Click here to download the embroidery design and the embroidery instructions. Enjoy!

Update on Thursday, May 10, 2012 at 5:24PM by Snez

My proof reader Patricia from Life’s A Stitch in Sault Ste fused Décor Bond to the back of her sewing machine mat before adding the batting and backing. She says "I love the way it hangs! The Décor Bond makes the mat hang nice and straight without rippling, sagging or drooping." Nice tip, thanks Patricia.

A first draft

Well last week I got myself a new camera and much to my disappointment it didn’t come with a camera bag. So, this weekend I made one. Actually this is the first draft. The basic idea works well, but there are lots of little bugs that need to be ironed out.

For one, I cut out the pattern with the tulip design upside down - oops. Then, I decided that I would use hook and loop tape (Velcro) for the closure. But because I stitched the quilt design through all three layers there was no way to stitch the hook and loop tape without it showing through to the other side. So when the bag is closed, well have a look:

As you can see the stitching on the hook and loop tape shows right through. Of course it would look better if I had used thread to match the background, but still. So, have to solve that problem.

Anyway, the camera fits perfectly inside. So, the project is a go. I just have to fix up the stuff that doesn’t work. Once I am done, I’ll try to get a little tutorial up.

A new camera and a new outfit

I finally got myself a new camera, a Fujifilm Finepix F660EXR. Not the top of the line by any stretch of the imagination, but a really nice camera. It has so many features, I think I’ll actually have to read the manual on this one.

So that’s one new thing, I also spent the day sewing for myself, which is a rarity. I’ve decided no more work on weekends, I get to sew for me from now on. And try to update my blog every once in a while. What did I make you ask?? I made the skirt and the tank top.

I picked a really lightweight fabric, so I had to interline the skirt. Interlining is when you baste the fabric and lining together and sew them as one fabric.

It’s a little extra work, but totally worth it. All you do is put the fabric and lining pieces with wrong sides together and baste several times across. I usually start with a line down the center and then work to the sides.

And here are the finished skirt and top.

 

The skirt looks like a wrap, but it’s a full skirt. The wrap is just an overlay. I really love the fit of the skirt, I think I might make one without the wrap overlay. Even though it looks like an outfit, I will likely wear the two pieces separately, I am not much on wearing prints from heat to toe.

Patchwork in-the-hoop

This bright patchwork placemat is the May 2012 embroidery club project. Retailers just click on Retailer Login to get to your download page.

You may be wondering, “where’s the embroidery?”.  The patchwork tulip and strip blocks are the embroidery. These fun blocks are pieced entirely in the hoop; your embroidery sewing machine does all the hard work.

The tulip and strip blocks are designs from Patchwork In-the-Hoop Embroidery Designs #sc069d, included with the project.

Pipe Up

I was just working on a project for a future embroidery club and though I would take a break and write up this little tutorial on making your own piping. Have to say, I just love piping! I know, I don’t use it often enough. But when I do, the projects are always fabulous. The piping really defines edges, and if you choose the right fabric, you can add a great pop of color. Of course if you make your own piping you have an endless variety of fabrics to choose from and you can make amazing piping.

Here’s what you need:

1 1/4” wide strips of fabric cut on the bias; length as needed

Piping cord; length as needed

Piping foot

Groovin' Piping Trimming Tool or the Groovin' Piping Trimming Tool Grande.

If you need to join your bias fabric strips to make the necessary length, stitch the strips on the bias to reduce bulk, as follows:

Pin the ends of the strips as shown, with right sides facing. Stitch from corner to corner. Trim the seam to 1/4" and press open.

Attach the piping foot onto your sewing machine. Select a straight stitch and move the needle position slightly to the right of center.

The Piping Foot is an optional sewing machine accessory. It has a deep groove on the underside. The piping passes through this groove while you stitch it onto your fabric. Be sure to ask your sewing machine retailer for more information.

Wrap the bias strip around the piping cord and pin every so often, to hold. Place the fold of the fabric strip with the cording, under the groove of the piping foot and stitch.

We make the piping first, then attach it to our project. Setting up the needle position this way ensures that this seam is hidden when you sew the piping onto your project.

Need a perfect 1/4" seam allowance on your piping? Use the Groovin' Piping Trimming Tool.

We used narrow piping that's perfect with the original Groovin' Piping Trimming Tool. For larger piping use the Groovin' Piping Trimming Tool Grande.

Pin the piping onto the right side of your project. Set the needle position at center and stitch the piping all around.

Clip into the piping tape around the corners so that it turns easily; sew to within 2” of a corner, then stop sewing and clip into the tape every 1/4” for a 3” length around the corner. Continue sewing right to the corner. Stop with the needle in the fabric, pivot and continue sewing the next side.

To finish the ends of the piping: leave a 3" length of piping unstitched at the start and at the end. Unstitch a 2" length of the piping tape at one end. Line up the piping ends and cut the cord from the end that you just unstitched so that the cord ends butt together. Fold 1/4” to the wrong side on the overlapping end. Finish stitching the piping into place.